ok i got a 07 hummer H2 Sut. In looking at the back seat it looks almost like the same back seat as a 01-07 chevy crew cab non HD Would the same box for a 01-07 crew cab fit under the seat of this SUT? Im trying to put 2 subs preferably 12s in the damm thing and would move arround what i can but i cant see a easy or smart way to do a box behind the seat because the midgate is integral with the rear window and under the seat i barely have 5 in of total clearance   Any suggestions ?

actually depends on the car.some of the newer gms its actually is just a electrical setup since the car is drive by wire.On others its just as simple as hooking up a cable to the throttle . The days of just being a car audio ONLY is slowly dissapearing.

Good question and ive been asked this a million times before. Now im a big jl fan and have probably installed every amp and sub they sell in the last few years so i hope im a bit of a expert. Heres my .02 cents and again every ones exprience can be different.so heres mine.   I love And repeat LOVE the the HD series.Ive been installing them since they were released its a great amp for the size,The Connections located in the back make it super easy to flush mount the amps and if you get the stacking kit the only footprint you loose is the size of the unit for two amps stacked on top. As a 4 channel the HD 600/4 can run all the way down to 1.5 ohm stereo but at 2 ohm stereo i have gotten great results.very smooth and easy controls for gain and the high pass filter and the input range is switchable to boot. As a 5 channel the 900/5 does alot of things i like and that make alot of sense. Lets say your building a project that you can only get 1 set of rca's out of IE a basic IPOD output,Yet you want to fully use the amp and all 5 channels no problem just flip a switch and your done ,you can adjust the gains seperate yet the amp will see the rcas as a summed input or you can run it with 2 pair or 3 pair its all the same to the amp. Sub side of the 5 channel will go all the way down to 1.5 ohm and put out  a solid 500w.   Now the slash series can be stacked"If you match the amp sizes IE 500/1 and 300/4 And the slash series is a bit stronger as seperate units yet to get the same output from one amp and have lower power requirements,Less power and ground wire and a way smaller Foot print the HD is the way to go. Yes theres always going to be a need for the Slash series.They are VERY powerfull and a well know for sure out there in the audio world,For subs i cant find better than the 1000/1 v2 and ive run 4 500/1s to run 4 10w7s and it was a great Sounding super accurate soundsystem Yet now i could do the same with 2 hd1200/1 s Again its all personal and subjective but honestly for 80%of your installs you cant fault the HD series unless your running 12w7s or bigger then the slash series is the way to go.  

great stories people keep em comming i could soo start a call in talk show just on this alone

We as car audio fans/installers and owners,Always talk about this build or that build or the build they or we did yesterday or going to do tommrow.Yet we forget the VERY first one,You know the FIRST ONE.See as far back as i can remember the first one THE very first one is always the one years later you look back on and say,OMG what the hell was i thinking ?For some of us its a trip down memory lane that is a red letter day in history.For the rest of us the Real ones that live in reality,The first install is always the horror story that we were super proud of.Chest thumping,Big cheezy grin on the face proud,Yet years later you look at it and say to yourself ,I must have been High!. Perfect example is my first,at any time chime in and say to your self "Yeah ive been there"   The first build i ever did was on my own car,it was in 1987 and i was the super proud owner of a 1979 Chevy malibu 2 door coupe,With a fire breathing 229 v6 and power NOTHING."yes kids there was a day that cars didnt have power steering,power windows OR POWER BRAKES.i got lucky my car had power brakes so i could sorta stop,I was soo stoked about owning it and being a newbie in the car ownership field i felt the need to HOOK my car up. Growing up in newark Nj the big rage back then was Cerwin vega speakers,Alpine decks and BOSS amps"Yes i said BOSS" So i did a bit of research,Looked over some cars and came up to my first build. So heres what went in,I bought 2 cv 15 subs and also grabbed 4 Cv 12s,I ripped out the rear seatback and put it on hinges at the bottom edges ,I used a bungie cord to tie it to the deck so it would stay up,The 12s went on the rear deck no wood no pannel i cut the holes out of the METAL DECK and put them in there free are.The 2 15s sat on 1/2 in plywood behind the seat using nuts n bolts to hold it to the braces holding up the rear deck. I had 4 Compression horn tweeters hooked up next to the subs for some HIGHS BABY!!!"Yeah ghetto i know" i had 2 1500 watt BOSS AMPS running the 12s and 2 boss 1000s running each of the 15s.The wireing looked like a rats nest was probably a fire hazzard but my car,My first install was DOPE!!!Man !!! Up front i have 2 5 1/4s in the doors for mids That was IT!no 4 channel amp nada cause my deck was the Shiz!!!I had a alpine PULLOUT DECK "AKA benzi box"and to make it all that much better i had the End all be all of setups i had a GOOSENECK boss EQ! Ohh yeah please dont pat me on the back i know i was bad to the bone! It was a kick ass system,when it played,Shut off like i didnt pay the light bill,rattled like a half full jar of peanuts and was a total mess SQ wise. But in my eyes at the time i was soo dammed badd ass that i put a set of Camaro 15 in wheels on it,Rubber Rear spring boosters and a set of curb feelers just to make it dope! Yes looking back at it now im embarrased to say i ever drove the thing,Yet back then i was soo happy i took my friends for joy rides just to burn 77 cent a gallon gas!   Just a trip down memory lane,Hopefully it takes you down a happy road too!

brand should be irrelevant ,one question is this ,WIll the train horn be operated using the factory horn trigger "IE you push the horn button on the car and the train horn sounds" That will affect the setup but the basic can be this Most aftermarket alarms will have 2 triggers for horns one for factory and one for a siren.Or it uses one "Brown wire on dei" and that can be changed from constant to pulse for either setup.You would want to have it set on pulse and use a standard SPDT relay to handle the train horn.Pin 30 your positive out to your train horn pos input trigger,85 to ground 86 pos input from your alarm siren trigger and 87 your 12 v fused to battery source 30 amp or better. If its a AIR operated train horn all the play time your gonna have is as much air stored in the tank.Unless you trigger the Air compressor on when the air runs low,Yet the drawback you will have is your battery will run down VERY fast if your compressor is running.Its a nice gimmick but not reliable as far as vehicle defense.I would probably put a dei 528t timer or use a pac TR7 and have the timer only set for 15 seconds of train horn honk before it kills it.IF someone cant here a 150+db train horn they should get there car jacked ! Thats a basic outline,i can get deeper in depth if the alarm to be used is outlined along with vehicle and horn details