http://www.pac-audio.com/PACProductData/TR7/1_Instructions/tr-7_instructions_010505.pdf This will automatically bypass Alpine’s video procedure. After programming (detailed programming on page 3), connect the GREEN wire to the Alpine’s remote wire, the BLUE wire to the Alpine’s foot brake input wire, the WHITE wire to the Alpine’s parking brake input wire. In this configuration, relays are not needed. Do not connect any other sources to the WHITE or BLUE wires of the TR-7. Connect the RED wire to vehicle’s accessory 12v. Note: This feature is factory set. Keep switch to off position and wire according to above. No programming is neccessary unless changed. This post was edited by Barry Schanz at May 16, 2012 11:03:27 AM PDT

You can do it with a PAC TR-7 or an Axxess Trigger. Both devices are easy to wire and they're pre-configured for Alpine head units.

For overall quality of construction, design(inside and out) plus sound quality you do get what you pay for. A good source of honest reviews is Gary Springgay of pasmag.com. The amplifier reviews of his I've seen are quite comprehensive.

I have tweeters from a CDT Audio CL-62Pro component set that I would part out. It has two pairs of tweeters. The ones I would sell you are 1" silk tweeters. I would sell the TW-25 tweeters with flush mount and surface mount cups for $60.

The Metra GMOS-100 adapter might work, but so far I can't confirm it if you have a 2007 Montana SV6. Metra doesn't list 2007 for that vehicle, and neither does Crutchfield.

Brad Stolberg said:What amp berry?. Precision Power P900.4

I'm running a lower cost amp which shares a very similar design to the Hertz HDP amps and I love it. Tons of power and very low noise.

Look for speakers with a sensitivity of around 90 dB or higher to sound decent on head unit power. Bostons have a reputation of handling a lot of power, so stay away from those for this vehicle. How do those speakers sound with the current radio?

That's a pretty open-ended question. Look up radios based on the features he wants. The built-in power for speakers doesn't vary much between brands to really matter.

Are you referring to anything specific? The Ingenix head units should be really badass when they're released.

Since they're only showing digital media receivers I'm guessing there's an issue with depth clearance on CD receivers. You'd use a standard dash kit that should at least make fitting a single DIN easy. If there's cutting required behind the radio I couldn't tell you what is needed. The Metra 99-2001 dash kit instructions don't mention anything special required for this car. They usually say if cutting is required. http://metraonline.com/files/products/INST99-2001_web.pdf

Air leaks will make some annoying noises. Fill the unused holes and it should sound better.

Adjust the LOC so you can turn the head unit volume up higher before it distorts.

I added an Alpine PXA-H700 a few weeks ago. I simplified my speaker setup quite a lot. The way I had it sounded really good, but I didn't want the limitations of passives on the dash-mounted drivers, plus I wanted to try running tweeterless. I now have the 2" pods shoved into the corners of the dash by the windshield. My tweeters are on a shelf in my garage. With the ability to set time alignment on each driver I can hear really precise vocal placement on reference quality material. Level matching has helped as well.

A Droid what? Smartphone?

WTF the headliner was covered in shag? LOL

Henry, Rockford uses harnesses for the connections so there's no room to put test leads in. Richard, you need bare wires to touch the probes to. Strip back some insulation. http://youtu.be/I246L_8ppFk

Bryce Meiklejohn said:Alright I went with 4 gauge. Hopefully this fixes the sub popping noise. Stereo shop (Certified Radio in Edmonton) said it would but I'd rather do it myself. Either way the ground wire needs to be replaced. Thanks guys! Popping noises aren't caused by undersized power wire. If that's exactly the diagnosis they came to you need to talk to someone else(us).

I've seen shag carpet once in an otherwise really nice Subaru WRX. I can see why you'd want to do something crazy to be different with those cars since people go for cookie cutter builds all the time.

Like Brad said, get a Unibit set. They'll cut into sheet metal easily and it saves a hell of a lot of time. If you need any help with soldering check this out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ The Hakko FX-888 soldering station is what Dave Jones recommends, and he's been doing electronics design work for 25 years. This post was edited by Barry Schanz at April 18, 2012 10:51:53 AM PDT