SoundMan Car Audio - Bit One Tuning help

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Bit One Tuning help

Derek Shoemake
- 33 posts
February 22, 2012 5:00:07 AM PST

I'm installing my first bit one and I need some advice. First let me tell you my set up. It is in a 1997 Chevy Silverado Extended Cab. I have 4 Treo 12's in the bed that is cut through to the cab in a ported box. I have two JBL 1200w amps running two 12's each. I have an RCA going from the bitone to the input on one 1200w amp and then an RCA going from the output of the 1200w amp to the other 1200w amp. I have 4 6x9's on the back wall facing directly at the back of the front seats. These have there own amp and I have it running to the bit one as well. I have a 6-1/2 and a tweeter in each door and these are on there own amp and I have it plugged into the bit one as well. I have an Ipad as my head unit and have an AV adapter on it sending HDMI video and Audio to a 19" LCD in the dash. I have used an optical audio cable to grab the audio from the TV and have it running to the bit one. I need some advice on setting up the bit one on my laptop, Which settings would be best? I will attach some pictures to help.
Ross Melton
- 13 posts
February 22, 2012 6:44:50 AM PST

Well if you're running the front components active i.e. an amp channel for each tweeter and each 6-1/2, then I'd setup the bit one for a 2-way plus sub. This takes care of the front components and subs, not the 6x9's. I'd personally leave the 6x9 disconnected as they'll kill any front sound stage. You might put them on some kind of switch, so you can crank them at the beach. Or better yet, sell them to some kid with a late 70's Camaro.

BTW, I see the campaign sign in the background....Do we really need to put more COX in office!?

This post was edited by Ross Melton at February 22, 2012 6:46:38 AM PST
Derek Shoemake
- 33 posts
February 22, 2012 6:58:35 AM PST

I would really like to still use the 6x9's through the bit one for now though, later I plan on removing them and coming up with something different. How could set up the bit one for everything?
Ross Melton
- 13 posts
February 22, 2012 7:12:18 AM PST

I would still setup the front and subs as a 2-way plus sub system. The 6X9's could be setup on bitone and hi-passed at the same Hz that you lo-pass the subs. For SQ I'd connect a simple DC toggle switch on the remote wire of the amp powering them to turn them off. When you wanna get loud, switch them back on.
Barry Schanz
- 182 posts
February 22, 2012 11:09:42 AM PST

Without hearing them I would do a bandpass filter on those 6x9s to tame the treble. I'm counting 3 tweeters per 6x9, which is 12 tweeters total in the back. Holy shit.
Derek Shoemake
- 33 posts
February 22, 2012 2:20:14 PM PST

Should I take a different route than a bit one?
Brad Stolberg
- 487 posts
February 22, 2012 3:19:57 PM PST

no it doesn't get any better than digital into a bitone as far as source/processor combo, but you already know my opinion on that.

I agree with ross that all those rear speakers should be off to get you the best soundstage possible. and Barry's idea is a great way to try to tame the rear's. however Ross' idea of the switch isn't needed because you can just make 1 or 2 or 3 of the 4 tuning presets with no rears, rears at lower levels, whatever you want, and that will help you decide on your future plans

Are you running your front's active? exactly what amp is on your rears and how is it wired?

if you are then channel 1+2 front midbass, 3+4 front tweeters, 5+6 rears, 7+8 subs and then your going to need to play with the front crossover settings with an RTA in hand to get it perfect.

If your running totally passive then just combine the 4 channels for the front into just 2, but based on your rig you already that kinda stuff.

so as far as tuning, id set up time alignment at the very least anyone can do that, it just might take some more time than others

I'd set all your amps x-overs to be redundant or bypass them if you can and set your subs LP and speaker high pass

being a first timer with the bitone your just going to have to sit in the car and play with the settings, make presets with different tuning and find what you like and dislike. the beauty of the Bitone is that its nearly infinatly tunable and so convienient to just hop on your laptop and tweak things. do ya get what im sayin...?
Derek Shoemake
- 33 posts
February 22, 2012 4:41:00 PM PST

Ok I'll try to Get the best settings I can , thanks for all the help. Another install question. Since I don't have remote wire coming from a head unit , is it ok to use the same ignition wire to the remote side as well?
Brad Stolberg
- 487 posts
February 22, 2012 4:47:33 PM PST

yea run the accessory to the remote trigger, if you want the car on and stereo off you can turn everthing off by pressing in the DRC's knob for 5 seconds

Are you running your front's active? exactly what amp is on your rears and how is it wired?
Chris Penton
- 54 posts
February 24, 2012 5:34:06 PM PST

One thing about setting time alignment. If you don't level match your left and right then it will be really hard to time align. Sure you can measure but that only gets you in the ballpark. If you are out of phase it will kill the midbass. Ideally you can tell when the left and right are time aligned when vocals center directly in front of you and are focused. If you don't level match, the 300-800Hz region will be hotter from the left in general, the 1kHz to 4kHz should be hotter from the right side in general splitting your image. Here you can see why centering the image gets difficult because certain frequencies pull to the left, others to the right. I would go get an SPL meter and pink noise in 1/3 octave segments and level match first.

Never boost, only cut.

This post was edited by Chris Penton at February 24, 2012 5:35:15 PM PST